Copacabana DIY August 20 21 22 23
After the cold and the hard life at the Salar, arriving here with the Titicaca Tours bus makes me the same effect on the French Riviera, apart from the dirt roads.
There are hotels front of the lake, some bars, even very stylish, people sitting in the sun enjoying the views, shops, a market, fantastic sunsets, a lot of life
It’s 13.30, I spent a sleepless night on an uncomfortable and narrow seat on a Todoturismo bus, for which I paid a fortune, 230 BOB, and which leaves us at 6.00 at La Paz Terrapuerto. After searching in vain for something directed to the Titicaca, but stopping in Tiwanaku (“you can take a taxi”, they tell me), I give up Tiwanaku and buy direct ticket to Copacabana, 30 BOB, leaving at 8.30, one of the last places available. The Strait of Tiquina is crossed by boat, passengers get off. The bus waits on the other side of the peninsula, we can leave on board our hand luggage (obviously not the money and the precious things). The lake waters are a deep blue, the sky is clear, and in the distance the snowy peaks of the Cordillera Real rise. It’s an entchantment. The last piece of road is very twisty. Upon arrival we are all channeled to a hotel owned by Tititcaca tours, but at the same price, 80 BOB I can find a double room facing the lake with marble bathroom and breakfas, at the beautiful Lake Titicaca Estelar Hotel
With these excellent premises, I eat a good trout at one of the kiosks, nr. 10, Marthita, the prices are the same everywhere (25 BOB),
I take a cup of tea in an elegant bars (6 BOB) with waiters hyphnotized by the vision of a football match with AC Milan, go around the town, and begin to look around for gifts to take home, there are here exceptional jewelery shops, at very low prices, and book for the day after an excursion to the Isla del Sol and Luna (30 BOB). The sunset is outstanding. Dinner at Restaurante Flor de Tierra 2, 15 BOB (soup, trout, and desserts)
Before leaving, I wondered wheter it is better or not to overnight at the Isla del Sol. Due to the limited time (2 full days), I thought better to base in Copacabana, make just a day trip, and use the spare day to visit the peninsula.
In hindsight, however, I think it would be better to dedicate more time at Isla del Sol, it seems to me a more special experience, the place is wonderful, whereas the mainland is “only” pretty (especially Sampaya)..
Despite having read that there is a chance to go both north and south of the Isla del Sol (the north is the less touristy) I contact the only two companies I find at the port of Copacabana, and both are directed only to Yumani, south, and not to Challapampa (north). It takes several hours to trek across the island. Therefore not knowing what else to do, I rely on them, since they offer the opportunity to see the Isla de la Luna as well.
The ferry is small, and carries both tourists and locals.
Once at the Isla de la Luna we pay a small entrance fee, 10 BOB, and have 45 minutes to visit the temple of the Virgins, which were young girls sacrificed to the Gods. Only a few ruins reman, and apart from some women selling homemade souvenirs, there is absolutely nothing, a small guesthouse is uninhabited
The view extends into the distance
In less than half an hour we arrive at the Isla del Sol, entrance 5 BOB, the return is fixed in the afternoon at about 16.00. The dock is very lively.
Again, no paved roads, only trails, and a grand staircase which leads to the main trail, which crosses the island lengthwise from north to south. I walk up the staircase, on whose sides guesthouses, a few restaurants and a couple of bars have been built. From the top I can see both coasts
Dinner at Restaurante El Fogon de la Cabaña, 15 BOB, as one goes away from the front lake, prices decrease.
The next day, I go to the Plaza Sucre, where the buses and taxis stop, and haggle 170 BOB to bring me up to Yampupata, stopping at Sampaya and a sanctuary. The latter is a kind of Lourdes cave, where a statue of the Virgin Mary is covered with colored ribbons, according to local custom, and, unfortunately, the car park is full of garbage.
Sampaya is instead a pretty village, with nobody around at 11.00.
Yampupata is a cluster of houses without a real center, a large soccer ball field, boats anchored at the pier, and donkeys. There should also be a ferry to the islands, but I can’t see any dock, any ticket boot, anything.. . Everything is deserted, no sellers, no food stalls, total zero. .
The lake waters are very clean and transparent. We go back to Copacabana passing in front of some floating islands; here they are not inhabited like in Perù, but used to breed trouts and other fishes
I have lunch very late, I buy an empanada on the street and then a cup of tea and a slice of cake at the Bar Pueblo Viejo (35 BOB).
I do some shopping. To give an idea of the costs: a parure necklace and earrings with precious stones (malachite): 70 BOB, 20 BOB a typical hat in soft alpaca wool, 70 BOB two pairs of gloves in pure alpaca.
I leave this place the next morning, very reluctantly. 30 BOB a bus to Puno, Peru